Post Processing related – liewwk Nature

June 18, 2022June 18, 2022

DxO PureRaw 2 Noise reduction performance … CANON R5 & SONY A1

few months ago my friend introduce to me “DxO PureRaw 2” for very good noise reduction. I am bit busy last few months and finally I have time download to check out ISO performance of Fujifilm XH2-S , CANON R7 which both APS-C sensor which most the users concern on ISO performance. But we know when smaller sensor normally has more noise with bigger sensor camera (with same megapixel). Too bad both camera raw files are not supported by the DxO PureRaw 2. But I decide to make a simple test with CANON R5 & A1

几个月前，朋友介绍了这款新的软件。大概是降噪非常好，比我之前介绍的Topaz Denoise 好。

我一直较忙，这几天终于有时间坐下清理照片。处理一些事情。还有最近试了2架新的半幅的相机（富士 XH2-S & 佳能 R7) ,大家（包括我）都有点担心噪点问题。因为我们这的摄影环境都较暗。我们也希望有较长的焦距，半幅的相机都是我们想用可是主要担心噪点问题。

可是，这个软件 DxO PureRaw 2 尽然还不支持这两架相机，可是尽然已下载。我也试试在高像素相机之一的佳能R5 &索尼 A1 （迟一点会放上）

Simple test with CANON R5 & SONY A1

I only test 2 ISO – ISO2000 because this is my comfortable accept ISO for R5 and ISO6400 is my highest auto ISO set for R5 & ISO4000 for A1 .

– Click the picture to see original full size picture.

– the DxO PureRaw really process the raw file into a DNG file with very good noise-details balance output.

– please support original software

i. CANON R5 : ISO2000

ii. CANON R5 : ISO6400

iii. SONY A1 : ISO2000

iv. SONY A1 : ISO4000

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my recent posts

3 days with CANON R7 + RF600mm F4 – IS, Battery life, AF, ISO samples

Field experience with Fujifilm X-H2S + Fujinon XF150-600mm f/5.6-8

April 12, 2011

Exposures Blending

exposures blending1

exposures blending2

Manual masking – exposures blending

Photomatix Blending

While we shoot landscape, to get right exposures for both foreground and background (sky) .. it is just not too simple … as discussed previously , we can either

1. GND filter

2. black card method

3. HDR

4. Exposures blending (where we will discuss here)

e.g. of 2 pictures

– normally we refer same sky but just different exposures but for this example … I got same position but the cloud actually cover the Starry sky

– how I do Exposures Blending

i. normally I will shoot one foreground 1st with right iso, exposure and sometime with light painting

ii. continue shooting the sky or background

iii. use software masking or blending both picture together

***for how I mask the 2 pictures click old link here

another test used Photomatix “Exposures Fusion” option

*** not much editing done on the post blending picture

February 25, 2011February 25, 2011

Should I use Camera Long Exposures Noise Reduction ?

Me and my gang have a short discussion last week whether should we use the camera Long exposures noise reduction (NR) or not … as it normally produce hot pixel (red dots) after the long exposures shot especially involve a lot of dark area (black, dark grey ….). e.g. show below

Red dots appear … without the Long Exposure (LE) NR turn on camera body

But from my experience the noises and even the red dot can be reduce manually in Adobe Camera Raw (ACR) noise reduction function …

here are few pictures capture

1. with LE NR turn on

2. no LE NR turn and no PP

2. no LE NR turn and with ACR NR

simple ACR Noise Reduction

a 100% crop of 3 pictures above

*** all the setting are the same and it look slight different due to the sky turning dark …

Canon 5dm2 + Canon 1635L

# Exposure Time (1 / Shutter Speed) = 79/1 second ===> 79 second
# Lens F-Number / F-Stop = 11/1 ===> ƒ/11
# ISO Speed Ratings = 200

based on the 3 pictures compare

– picture with LE NR turn on body require double exposure time
– less noise especially the “red dot”/hot pixel
– the one without any NR with more details
– simple NR on non LE NR picture can reduce more noise and all red-dot (hot pixel) disappear. Even less details compare to the LE NR turn on picture. But this sure can be fine tune by some masking the foreground or main object

So if you ask me, is it worth to spend double the time while shooting ? my answer is no while I can reduce the noise in PP … so I will safe more time to shoot and remove the noise later …..

February 7, 2011March 6, 2011

How I PP MACRO pictures – making gif animation

Every macro shot that I shoot, I trying my best to get few focus shot to increase my MACRO picture DOF which previously discuss how I stack it @ How I increase MACRO DOF . Because of that, I always shoot few shots before I stop and while I am shooting I will not leave the insect but keep monitor them… some time, they will so some action which may attract me to capture the action to make it as an animation to show …

And one of very early day share

another Tiger beetle

How Young Tiger performance
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2750/4066074743_9d5ab59482_o.gif

How mature Tiger performance
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2779/4066071239_5f6aaf5a87_o.gif

and … this is 😀
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2427/4066076445_03b911fc6b_o.gif

Let me share how I make my gif file… there are many software can make that but I use only Photoshop to create the animation gif file …

1. load the file into stack

2. if you doing this with full size it need a lot of memory to work on .. so normally resize before load into single stack. it will align the pictures …

3. crop the main object so all the picture in same size and same location

4. from the left panel (layer) save file by file with the new orientation and size

5. after save all the file , load it again into a stack

6. click on Windows –> Animation

7. from the animation window, choose all the files, or re-order the files. highlight all then choose the time for each picture to appear

8. save as web, choose gif file … then the gif file animation is ready

and my final result

January 24, 2011March 6, 2011

MACRO PP II : How I Stitch/Pano for MACRO

I am working on 2 pano MACRO shot … and think this is quite important especially for MP-E65 user.. so just have a quick copy and paste over

Why I need to Stitch ?
I start stitch my macro due to I have my MPE where only do minimum 1:1 (1x life time) and any object that >22mm will not fit in single picture frame … and how I get the whole object into a single picture …… hmmm I am thinking a stitch it …. and I have my very 1st try while outing to Fraser Hill 21 Nov 2008, where I saw plenty of BIG moth and I cannot fit it into a single picture e.g.

[shot with 1:1] , and this is too big for me and I am thinking how I got the whole moth view .. and I finally did something for a smaller one

[stitch picture]

[picture 2:1]

How I do Stitch ???
1. for start, how we shoot

We need to shot picture at same level of view so I normally shot at standard angle where esily to shoot another e.g. face direct view, side view …….. e.g.

How I do Stitch ???
1. for start, how we shoot

We need to shot picture at same level of view so I normally shot at standard angle where esily to shoot another e.g. face direct view, side view …….. e.g.

i. face focus on left eye

ii. focus on right eye

iii. focus on face

2. use Photoshop “Photomerge” option

3. i use “interactive layout”

4. select the file you wish to stitch

5. this will take some time depend how many pictures to stitch and your PC power 😀

– if this is not auto merge then try to move around the picture to try manual to merge the pictures ….

6. click Ok after #5, then it will come out like standard JPEG with multiple layers

7. for the non-cover area, either crop it away or clone it 😀

8. normally I will use multiple shots again to stack the focus area by using method discuss in

“How I Increase My Macro Picture DOF”

…..please comment and let me know if you need further question.

😀