not too long ago, me and my gang (shunfa) still struggle to find and capture the
Milky way … think we went to wrong places and wasted a lot of time .. but
recently , with the help of Iphone/Ipad tools (star chart) we can easily locate
the Milky way and capture it easily (as long as we choose low pollution light
area)… sharing some experience how I shoot star previously
it is not easy to make this without the right tool but I think with handhold + some basic tripod we still able to shoot this … I am using Panaroma head , previously I was using Manfrotto 303SPH but very soon I make decision to change to Nodal Ninja due to the flexibility(dissemble to smaller part) & the weight (it is ~4 times lighter)
Compare the competition and avoid falling into the red.
Below are some full spherical panoramic tripod heads that achieve very similar functions. (below prices may not reflect current pricing)
Model
Approx.
Weight
Approx.
Size Closed
Approx.
Retail Price
Nodal Ninja 3 MKII
1lb 1oz.
7″x2″x2″
$209.95
Nodal Ninja 5Lx
1lb 14oz.
8″x3″x2″
$294.95
Manfrotto 303SPH
4lbs 4oz
11x7x6
$517.95
MK Panohead-II
2lbs 4oz
10″x4″
$780.00
Really Right Stuff (no click stops)
2lbs 9oz
12″x6″x4″
$800.00
Kaidan QuickPan Pro
(OUT OF BUSINESS)
4lbs 12oz
12″x5.5″x3″
$849.95
360Precision Adjuste
2lbs 4oz
8.2″x4″x2.2″
$1,175.00
source from http://www.nodalninja.com/
My original plan for this head is to shoot Panorama shot using UWA wide so I can get higher resolution and wider view of my Landscape shots e.g.
1. we need the tool , and for me Nodal Ninja, DSLR and lenses
2. then the only difficult part is to find the entrance pupil/nodal point, a point where it should maintain the center no matter how we rotate our camera
2iv. no matter how we rotate, the 2 stick should maintain at same position
at center
left from center
right from center
try to adjust as much as possible to get better result so we can can accurate entrance pupil so all the frame of the picture can stack without any distortion
3. with the correct reading and shoot the series (make sure every pictures have overlap area)
3i. with the software Photoshop or PTGui (pano software) all pictures can be stack together as below
with the reading above then we have the specify len Entrance Pupil which can use to create panorama or 360×180 pano with the setting just shoot with both A & B reading set on the pano head ….
I will keep this update, which mean I will do more pano using this head in near further .. so stay tune ………
and if you use Canon 5dm2
i. SIGMA24mmF1.8
ii. Canon 24105F4L
iii. Canon 1635L m2
iv. Canon 15mm F2.8
and need the entrance pupils … then drop me a message so I can share my reading to you
I am working on 2 pano MACRO shot … and think this is quite important especially for MP-E65 user.. so just have a quick copy and paste over
Why I need to Stitch ? I start stitch my macro due to I have my MPE where only do minimum 1:1 (1x life time) and any object that >22mm will not fit in single picture frame … and how I get the whole object into a single picture …… hmmm I am thinking a stitch it …. and I have my very 1st try while outing to Fraser Hill 21 Nov 2008, where I saw plenty of BIG moth and I cannot fit it into a single picture e.g.
[shot with 1:1] , and this is too big for me and I am thinking how I got the whole moth view .. and I finally did something for a smaller one
[stitch picture]
[picture 2:1]
How I do Stitch ??? 1. for start, how we shoot
We need to shot picture at same level of view so I normally shot at standard angle where esily to shoot another e.g. face direct view, side view …….. e.g.
How I do Stitch ??? 1. for start, how we shoot
We need to shot picture at same level of view so I normally shot at standard angle where esily to shoot another e.g. face direct view, side view …….. e.g.
i. face focus on left eye
ii. focus on right eye
iii. focus on face
2. use Photoshop “Photomerge” option
3. i use “interactive layout”
4. select the file you wish to stitch
5. this will take some time depend how many pictures to stitch and your PC power 😀
– if this is not auto merge then try to move around the picture to try manual to merge the pictures ….
6. click Ok after #5, then it will come out like standard JPEG with multiple layers
7. for the non-cover area, either crop it away or clone it 😀
8. normally I will use multiple shots again to stack the focus area by using method discuss in